VICO PIZZA & WINE: A CHIC GOURMET PIZZA RESTAURANT INSIDE A FORMER PALACE JUST STEPS FROM THE PANTHEON
The Cost - $33 per person
The Atmosphere – The setting of Vico Pizza & Wine is nothing short of spectacular. Just steps away from the Pantheon, the restaurant is located inside of a former palace. It features two distinct dining areas, one of which still has original, 500-year-old ceilings bearing the king’s crest. The main room is also a visual delight, complete with a gorgeous marble bar made of red and white Italian marble and a beautiful and colorful hand-decorated pizza oven. These two rooms may have very different design elements, but they blend seamlessly to create a chic, modern space with incredible historic charm. Reservations are a very good idea if you are planning on visiting and smart casual attire is acceptable though you will certainly not feel out of place if you decide to dress up.
Vincenzo “Enzo” Coccia is a legendary pizzaiulo (pizza maker) who is credited by many with creating gourmet Neopolitan pizza (and later pairing that pizza with wine). He is the owner of well-regarded restaurants in Naples, has written an acclaimed book on making the best Neopolitan pizza, and was featured on Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy, so there was no shortage of excitement when he, along with two of his sons, opened Vico Pizza & Wine in Rome in 2023. The restaurant, which offers a high-end dining experience in the heart of the city, has quickly established itself as a must-visit spot for anyone who enjoys pizza.
The Order – Vesuvio Montarine, Ciurillo Piscitiello, Margherita DOP, Nerano, and Delizia al Limone.
The Fantastic – The Margherita DOP is an outstanding example of classic Neapolitan pizza done to perfection. With a fluffy crust, excellent San Marzano DOP tomato sauce, fresh buffalo mozzarella, pecorino romano DOP, and just the right amount of extra virgin olive oil, this pizza stands out as one of the best Neapolitan pizzas in or out of Naples. The buffalo mozzarella and pecorino romano are delicious and the fresh basil sprinkled on top is done just right. It’s a classic executed exceptionally well, making it a must-order, especially if you have not had the chance to visit Naples.
The Vesuvio Montarine was another highlight of a meal full of excellent dishes. Made with tomatoes sourced exclusively from the Mt. Vesuvius region, Campana smoked buffalo provola DOP, grand padano , and fresh basil, all atop a piece of perfectly fried dough, this appetizer combines simplicity with high-quality ingredients. That certainly comes through in the taste with the flavorful bites showing you the true value of sourcing the best produce around. At 5 euros, it would be foolish not to order the Vesuivo Montarine.
The Great – The other appetizer that we ordered was the Ciurillo Piscitiello. A small calzone, the pisticello is a stuffed fried dough dish and there were four different versions to choose from. I opted for the Ciurillo which contained buffalo ricotta, squash blossoms, and pecorino romano DOP. The entire calzone was placed into a pan of sesame oil and fried as oil was constantly poured over the top of it. The result was a golden, crispy outer shell with a delicious combination of melted cheese and squash blossoms inside. Not only would I order this item again, I’d order one of the other versions to try next time, too.
The Nerano, one of Enzo’s signature pizzas, is a pizza created based on Pasta Nerano, which was invented in the village of Nerano in the 1950s. Like the pasta, Enzo’s Nerano pizza features fried zucchini, Provolone del Monaco, basil, and extra virgin olive oil, but he also adds mozzarella and a mint cream. The pizza was cooked in the restaurant’s beautiful oven at somewhere between 500 and 550 degrees Celsius for about 60 seconds while its three different shades of green from the basil, zucchini, and cream, gave the dish a very nice visual appeal. There were so many incredible parts to this pizza, but it was the basil and the mint that stood out and made this a unique and delicious choice.
To say that this meal ended on a high note would be an understatement. Dessert, the Delizia al Limone, truly lived up to its name. The sweet treat, which comes from the Amalfi coast, features a semi-sphere of sponge cake filled with lemon cream and topped with a delicate cream sauce. It struck the perfect balance between sweet and tangy and was not overly sweet, allowing the natural flavors to shine through. The soft textures and exceptional creams made this a delightful conclusion.
The Verdict – Vico Pizza & Wine offers a superb dining experience with its combination of historical charm, chic ambiance, and gourmet Neapolitan cuisine. Each dish is thoughtfully prepared and beautifully presented, using the best Italian ingredients around. At about $33 per person, Vico Pizza & Wine is more expensive than a typical, old-school pizzeria, but it is worth every single euro. The value here is easy to see and I would highly recommend a stop at Vico for anyone visiting the Eternal City.