SUCRE: AN INCREDIBLE MEAL AT A RESTAURANT THAT HAS STAYED AT THE TOP OF ITS GAME FOR OVER 20 YEARS
The Cost - $49 per person at the official exchange rate
The Atmosphere – Occupying a beautifully done space in the Belgrano neighborhood for 23 years, you would have absolutely no idea that Surce was a well-established fixture in the Buenos Aires gastronomic scene from the looks of its modern, pristine interior which still looks brand new. The incredibly high ceilings, open kitchen, and awesome bar were all there since the chic eatery opened in 2001. The only real addition has been the very cool glass enclosed cellar that has a dining table inside that can be reserved as a private room. Its minimalist, clean, modern design has kept this restaurant a trendy place to eat for over two decades, and it has a really great ambiance for a date, a night out, or a special meal. Reservations are accepted and are recommended, especially for weekends and holidays.
The restaurants that are lucky enough to have their “moment” generally have that moment for a couple of years before the next best thing comes along. However, Surcre’s “moment” has seemingly gone on forever with its modern Argentine cuisine and Argentina-only wine list winning awards year after year, including spots on San Pelligrino’s Latin America’s 50 Best list numerous times and a place in Argentina’s first Michelin Guide, which came out just this year. The founder of Sucre, Fernando Trocca, is an Argentinian chef who is one of the country’s greats and after building up a strong following in his home country, he opened Mostrador in New York and another Sucre in London.
The Order – Camarones Salvajes, Mollejas de Corazon, Risotto Azafranado con Ossobuco, Ojo de Bife, and a Crème Brulee de Romero.
The Fantastic – I only tried a handful of dishes during my visit to Sucre but out of them, two earned our hard to earn Fantastic rating. The first of them was the Risotto Azafranado con Ossobuco which is one of Sucre’s signature dishes and it was not hard to see why. The large serving of saffron risotto topped with tender, braised ossobuco, or veal shank, in a portion that might be big enough for two to share. The recipe was Trocca’s grandmother’s and it did not disappoint. The creamy risotto was perfectly done and the juices from the ossobuco along with bone broth gave it even more flavor. The meat was slow-cooked for three hours leaving it soft and juicy. The combination of the two was exceptional and makes this a must-order.
Sucre’s Ojo de Bife is a rib eye that stands out even amongst the many incredible steaks of Buenos Aires. Cooked on a wood-fire grill, the excellent cut of organic meat, which came from a free-range, grass-fed cow, was wet-aged 60 days before being cooked. The nice sized steak was tender, incredibly flavorful and had a strong smokiness that was very enjoyable. The meat was prepared jugoso, which is about medium-rare, and was very juicy. It was served with a rectangular potato stack that was nicely done but this dish was all about the meat.
The Great – On a night of excellent food, the other three dishes that were ordered earned our Great rating, with two of them standing out even more than the third. The Camarones Salvajes, one of the two appetizers I tried, was really lovely. It consisted of five medium sized wild prawns sourced from a river not too far from the city. The prawns sat in a bed of green mole with some crushed peanuts and was nicely presented. While the restaurant refers to the sauce as a mole, it is not exactly like a traditional Mexican mole and to me, it had more of a Thai green curry profile. Regardless, it was delicious and the chunky sauce was wonderful.
The other Great dish that really stood out was the dessert, the Crème Brulee de Romero. This very large crème brulee was very nicely done and the addition of the rosemary really made it unique and special. It was not overly sweet, the custard was smooth and tasty, and it came with some organic strawberries and nuts which added some nice texture and freshness. At a price of less than $6 using the official exchange rate, it is an excellent value and a perfect way to end the meal.
The other appetizer that was ordered was the Mollejas de Corazon, a sweetbread dish that came with a huancaina sauce and was accompanied by grilled cabbage. The large piece of sweetbreads had great texture and flavor and I enjoyed the pomegranate seeds that were sprinkled on top because it added a touch of sweetness which went well with the salsa huancaina. While I didn’t love the combination of the cabbage with the sweetbreads, each of the two ingredients were nicely done on their own - but the dish really didn’t need the cabbage at all.
The Verdict – The Verdict – Not only was Sucre’s food exceptional, but the ambiance and the staff really made the meal even more incredible. It is remarkable that Sucre has remained one of the top restaurants in Buenos Aires after all of these years but it is easy to see why. Deliciously prepared dishes like the risotto and the ribeye will make sure that Sucre stays a Buenos Aires fixture for years to come. I highly recommend a meal at Sucre next time you find yourself in Buenos Aires.
Sucre
Mcal Antonio José de Sucre 676, C1428 Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires, Argentina