STARA CARINARNICA: A LANDMARK RESTAURANT IN THE BELGRADE SUBURB OF ZENUM
The Cost -$11
The Atmosphere – Stara Carinarnica is located in an area of Begrade called Zenum which is situated along the Danube River. The interior of the restaurant features a heavy dose of bricks, with pretty brick arches throughout. While the restaurant is located just steps from the Danube River, it does not offer outdoor dining like many of the other restaurants located nearby.
Zenum is not located far from all of the hustle and bustle of Beglrade, but its tranquility and natural beauty provide quite the contrast to the center of Serbia’s capital city. Zenum is a beautiful place for a walk around the small town where you will find historic buildings and cute shops and restaurants, especially along the Danube River where restaurants line the riverbank. Stara Carinarnica might not be located right on the riverbank but what it lacks in river views, it certainly makes up for in history and tradition as it occupies the old customs office, built in 1723, when Zenum was at the border of the Austrian Empire and Serbia.
The Order – Teleća Čorba and Punjena Bela Vešalica u Slanini.
The Fantastic – The Teleća Čorba, a veal broth, was not a dish that jumped off the menu at me but it was recommended by the waiter. Thankfully, I listened to his advice. The broth was excellent and extremely flavorful with pieces of veal fat and veal neck in the soup along with fresh parsley, garlic, carrots, and onions. It was a nice, light appetizer and something that every table should order at Stara Carinarnica.
The Great –I might not be able to pronounce Punjena Bela Vešalica u Slanini but I can sure tell you that it is a Serbian dish worth ordering. A piece of juicy pork stuffed with kajmak, a cheese made from unpasteurized, unhomogenized milk that is very popular in Serbia, and then completely wrapped in strips of bacon which are grilled onto the meat, this dish is a Serbian specialty. The pork was juicy, and the cheese and the bacon just gave it additional layers of flavor and texture. And if the bacon-wrapped-stuffed pork wasn’t enough, the dish also comes with a side of fries. While not so great for your cholesterol, this dish represents some of the best of Serbian comfort food.
The Verdict – Stara Carinarnica serves up some of the best traditional Serbian food around in a historic setting that provides you with a unique dining experience. Whether it is for lunch or dinner, it is a great idea to head out to Zemun and try this truly delightful restaurant before or after taking a nice walk along the Danube.