SPICY FISH: MODERN ASIAN FLAVORS IN THE HEART OF IPANEMA
The Cost - $32 per person
The Atmosphere – Located in the trendy neighbourhood of Ipanema, only a five minute walk from Rio de Janeiro’s beautiful Ipanema beach, Spicy Fish is a stylish and modern restaurant that is spread across two floors. Wooden furniture, stone walls and green plants create a relaxed zen-like ambiance, making it perfect for a romantic date or a night out with friends. The exterior and staircase are covered in shimmering glass scales, giving a clever nod to the restaurant’s focus on fresh fish dishes. Reservations are accepted and are recommended, especially for weekends or peak dinner hours.
The kitchen at Spicy Fish is headed by Emerson Kim, a chef of Korean origin who has become famous for his flair with Japanese cuisine. Having previously worked abroad as a sushi chef at high-end Japanese restaurants such as Nobu, he is now making waves back in Rio. Spicy Fish captures the flavors of Asia - focusing mainly on Japanese cuisine with some popular Chinese and Korean dishes thrown into the mix. The menu offers a range of grilled dishes alongside the popular sushi and sashimi options.
The Order – Bao, Spicy Salmon Belly, Dyo Shake Uzura, Black Cod and Bulgogi.
The Great – Bao buns are always a popular appetizer and these were fluffy, delicious , and deserving of popularity. Generously filled with slow-cooked pork, simmered for an impressive nine hours, they were packed with flavor. The bao, which came two to an order, were easily shareable between two people and were greatly enhanced by the addition of umami-rich shitake mushrooms. The sauce was well-balanced with a hint of sweetness and a slight kick at the end, making these buns quite the treat.
One of the house specials worth trying was the Spicy Salmon Belly. This was a type of nigiri (hand pressed) sushi with a strip of seared salmon belly atop a bed of rice. The order came with two pieces and was very elegantly presented, with a torched top giving it a beautiful reddish orange hue. The searing also brought out the flavor of the rich, fatty salmon belly while the marinade had a subtle, spicy kick. It’s a small dish that I would definitely order again.
The Black Cod, which is subject to limited availability, was one of the top dishes of the evening. The fish was served on a smoking hot charcoal grill, adding a touch of drama to the table. This is a very popular way of presenting grilled dishes in Japan - it ensures the food is served sizzling hot and adds a smoky aroma to the dish. The fish was cooked on a banana leaf which imparted a subtle sweetness and was also served with a grilled half lime for a touch of citrus. The black cod had a soft, velvety texture and flaked apart perfectly upon eating. The only downside was that the piece of fish was quite small and it looked even smaller because the accompanying portion of rice was so generous.
The Good – Another Spicy Fish signature dish that was ordered was the Dyo Shake Uzura. This consisted of sushi rice wrapped with salmon and seared quail yolk. It was served at the same time as the Spicy Salmon Belly and similarly came with two pieces per order and a torched top. The quail yolk gave it a lovely rich flavor, but the taste of the salmon seemed to get a bit lost making the dish a little underwhelming overall. The slimy texture of this dish may turn some people off but it is very unique – though I’m not upset that I ordered it, I wouldn’t run to order it again.
Okay –The Bulgogi, one of the most popular beef dishes in Korea, should have had a distinctive smoky sweetness but instead lacked flavor and was overcooked. On the bright side, the dish was artfully presented on a sliced log, was served with a tasty gochujang sauce and lettuce leaf wraps, which made for a fun dining experience. The idea was to wrap the meat up in a lettuce leaf with a little rice and a dollop of sauce – the sauce definitely helped spice things up but the meat was just too bland. Unfortunately the bulgogi was a miss.
The Verdict – Overall, the meal at Spicy Fish was fun and enjoyable. Although the bulgogi disappointed, the majority of the food was flavorful and delicious. The stylish presentations and the restaurant’s attractive décor also added to the dining experience. I wouldn’t call Spicy Fish a must visit if you are only visiting for a few days but if you are craving Asian food or find yourself in Rio for a longer amount of time, Spicy Fish is one of the city’s better spots to dine.
Spicy Fish
R. Maria Quitéria, 99 - Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro - RJ, 22410-040, Brazil