IRIN: A REFINED CULINARY EXPERIENCE IN BRATISLAVA’S OLD TOWN
The Cost - $100 per person.
The Atmosphere – Nestled behind one of Bratislava’s most famous churches in a very pretty cottage-like structure, Irin’s interior is both charming and intimate. With seating for only around 20 guests, the tables are nicely spaced and the ratio of staff to guests is akin to what you would find at very high-end restaurants. While the size of the restaurant does make it feel somewhat exclusive, the lack of formality, including with respect to dress code, makes you feel welcome. While I wouldn’t recommend athletic wear, flip flops, or other very informal clothes, jeans and a polo, blouse, or button-down shirt are perfectly acceptable. It is an excellent place to celebrate a special occasion or host a fancy business dinner. Reservations are required and it is recommended that you book them well in advance to secure a spot. Credit cards are accepted.
Renowned for its innovation and elegance, Irin has earned a reputation as one of Bratislava's most esteemed dining destinations. Chef and owner Lukáš Hesko opened the restaurant, which is named in honor of his grandmother, in February of 2022. Located on the outskirts of the Slovakian capital’s famous Old Town, the restaurant only serves a multi-course tasting menu that is inspired by the seasons and is highly dependent on ingredient availability. It also boasts a great selection of natural wines from Central Europe.
The Order – Tasting Menu.
The Fantastic – It is quite impressive that two of the seven individual courses received our hard-to-earn Fantastic rating with Irin’s dry-aged pork loin, one of the heavier courses, just missing a Phenomenal rating. The pork loin was dry-aged aged for a whole month and the grilled fatty meat was out-of-this world delicious. It was topped with a pork jus with wild garlic and was truly exceptional. Accompanying the dish was a fried zucchini flower stuffed with chicken fat, and a fresh, slightly smoked tomato salsa. The squash blossom, golden and crispy, was a star on its own and had great texture and flavor. Overall, this was one of the best pork dishes I have ever had in my life.
The corn cream with black truffle and smoked leek, one of Irin’s signature dishes, was nearly as remarkable. What looked like a relatively basic pool of creamy corn grits turned out to be complex and full of flavor. The smoked leek was perfectly prepared, and the black truffle brought a richness and earthiness to the dish that was delightful. The addition of croutons inside of the corn cream brought a welcomed crunch, helping to make this dish a true highlight.
The Great – The first course after the amuse bouche was a marinated rainbow trout with kohlrabi which provided a bright and refreshing start to the meal. The citrus and herb-infused broth that was poured over the fish at the table showcased notes of coriander and basil and added depth to the dish. It was a lovely way to lead into the corn cream and the other heavier courses of the tasting menu.
The course that followed the corn cream was the roasted veal sweetbreads. The slow roasted meat was combined with yellow beetroot and served with a hollandaise-like egg yolk and fermented lemon sauce. This was all hidden under a large leaf from the restaurant’s own garden which was soaked in a chicken stock that also contains lemon zest. The dish combined soft flavors that worked in harmony and that really allowed the excellent slow-cooked crispy sweetbreads to shine.
The pork loin ended the savory portion of the menu and the pre-dessert course which featured a yogurt and tonic water sorbet, served as a palate cleanser before dessert. The incredibly creative and playful dish also featured some Croatian olive oil and a pinch of sea salt in addition to pieces of dehydrated orange and marinated lemon on top. The mix of bitterness from the tonic water and the sweetness of the orange worked beautifully together and I was shocked at how much I enjoyed the sorbet.
Of the two dessert courses, the last one, which consisted of a salted caramel chocolate ball with slightly roasted sunflower seeds along with Irin’s version of a parfait, was my favorite. The salted caramel was a nice treat, but it was the parfait that really stood out. The small parfait was creamy and frozen and had a slice of apple on it and I was instructed to not bite into it but rather to let it sit on my tongue until it melted. During that process, it revealed an unexpected and hidden dose of horseradish that was balanced wonderfully by the ice cream as well as the crisp apple slice. Overall, this was a fun dessert and a wonderful way to end the meal.
The Good – The other dessert course was an apricot cake with ricotta ice cream and fig leaf oil. The circular apricot cake was able to be eaten with your hands and wasn’t bad but was on the borderline of being too sweet. However, the ice cream was done perfectly with excellent texture and flavor, while the fig leaf oil added some color and a nice contrast. I very much enjoyed the dish, but I would have liked it even more if the cake wasn’t so sweet.
The Verdict – Irin offers an unforgettable dining experience with creative and expertly executed dishes that would make any foodie incredibly happy. But regardless of whether you consider yourself a foodie, the attention to detail in both the food and the service, combined with excellent flavors and ingredients, makes it a must-visit for anyone seeking a high quality yet unpretentious, dining experience in Bratislava. If you’ll be in the area, make your reservations in advance to guarantee yourself a visit.