ETTO: CONSISTENTLY GREAT DISHES AT THIS MODERN DUBLIN EATERY
The Cost -$45 per person
The Atmosphere – Etto is a small restaurant located on Merrion Row, one of Dublin’s main streets packed with bars and eateries, and is just a few blocks from the famous St. Stephen’s Green. It is a very small, welcoming space with very pretty moldings on the ceiling and table seating for about 20 people, with some additional counter seating in the back. Given the size of the restaurant, the tables are positioned quite close together and the space can get loud, making it better suited for non-intimate dinners. Etto only offers indoor dining and reservations are necessary.
When most people think of food in Ireland, they think of classic pub foods like Shepherd’s pie, fish and chips, and bangers and mash. However, three-time Michelin Bib Gourmand awardee and former Ireland Restaurant of the Year winner Etto prepares elevated, modern dishes with French and Italian influences that are on a different level. Etto’s menu is playful and creative while still using some traditional techniques and ingredients and its wine list is made for wine lovers.
The Order – Violet Artichoke, Roast Potato Gnocchi, Barbequed Slaney Valley Lamb, Hashed Potatoes, and Red Wine Prunes.
The Great – It was a challenge to rank these dishes, but the best dish of the evening was the Violet Artichoke. The appetizer was beautifully presented and featured barbequed peaches, small swirls of goat curd cheese, and truffle shavings with some mint and pistachio worked into the oil and cream. On their own, the artichokes were nothing special but when combined with the soft, creamy goat cheese and the herb oil with truffle, they were incredibly delightful. The barbequed peaches also complimented this dish as they added a surprisingly delicate sweetness that was far from overpowering.
Moving from the appetizer all the way to the dessert, the Red Wine Prunes were the second-best dish of the meal. Based on the menu description alone, I was prepared to order the Maple Custard, but the server informed me that the prunes are the only dessert that doesn’t ever come off the menu, so I pivoted - and I’m glad I did. This unique dessert was simply presented on a plate containing approximately six prunes in a red wine sauce with a nice-sized mound of vanilla mascarpone. The mascarpone had a lovely, creamy consistency slightly heavier than a heavy whipped cream and was not sweet or strong-flavored, making it an excellent choice to combine with the bold, sweet, spiced red wine sauce that covered the semisoft prunes.
Next up in our review is the Roast Potato Gnocchi, one of the two main courses that were ordered. The dish came with about six medium-sized gnocchi in an excellent sweetcorn velouté, a French cream sauce. The pasta was topped with some squash and some greens that gave the plate some color but didn’t add much flavor-wise. The gnocchi were filled with roasted potato that was very fluffy and that fluffiness was impressive. The highlight of this dish though was the velouté which was creamy with a slight sweetness from the corn; the sauce pulled the dish together and made it special.
The second main course of the evening was the Barbequed Slaney Valley Lamb which was served with a rectangular piece of artichoke gratin and a stuffed squash blossom. The two small medallions of lamb from the southeastern part of the island nation were incredibly tender, and the texture was perfect, but I did wish they were more flavorful and think that they were slightly overcooked. The best part of the dish was the squash blossom stuffed with goat cheese which was an absolute delight and was oozing with the goat cheese filling. The artichoke leek gratin was nice as well and I enjoyed its presentation. While I wouldn’t say this dish was a great value at $35 given the amount of meat on the plate, it was very enjoyable, and the squash blossom and artichoke gratin elevated the entrée to a dish I would certainly order again.
Last on the list is the Hashed Potatoes, another recommendation from the server. This side dish consisted of a small bowl of triple-fried potatoes that were on top of grilled onions. The potatoes were extra crispy on the outside and soft on the inside and were excellently prepared. However, they were served without a dipping sauce. That was fine for the first couple of bites but after that, the potatoes needed some other flavor and texture. The onions definitely helped in that department with their touch of sweetness, but it wasn’t enough - the potatoes still needed something more.
The Verdict – It is quite remarkable that Etto earned a Great rating on each one of the five menu items that were ordered as having the least liked dish earn a Great rating is very unusual for a restaurant in western Europe with a total food cost of under $50 per person. Going into a restaurant and being confident that you are going to order dishes that you would absolutely order again is not common but that is what happens at Etto and it shouldn’t be taken for granted. If you like modern cuisine and are in Dublin, Etto should be on your list of restaurants to dine at.