BRASSERIE VICTORIA: MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE IN SAO PAULO THAT DATES BACK TO THE 1940S
The Cost -$11
The Atmosphere – When you hear the name Brasserie Victoria, you generally envision a cute French-style eatery. However, that’s not exactly what you get at this São Paulo dining spot; instead, Brasserie Victoria has more of a middle eastern feel to it, which is appropriate given that the restaurant serves up Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine. The décor is dated and nothing to write home about and the restaurant has a very casual atmosphere, making it is a better option for a quick lunch rather than a special dinner.
The history of Brasserie Victoria, located in the upscale Itaim Bibi area of São Paulo, dates all the way back to the 1940s when Victoria Feres, a Lebanese-born Brazilian immigrant, started making Middle Eastern food at home in Brazil and selling it to help her family earn money. Not too long thereafter, in 1947, Brasserie Victoria was opened and the restaurant has been serving up Arabic food ever since. Now with Victoria’s grandchildren involved in the ownership and operation, the restaurant is considered one of the most iconic spots for Middle Eastern food in a city with millions of inhabitants of Middle Eastern descent.
The Order – Esfiha Folhada de Carne, Kibe Frito, and Fatuche.
The Good – The Esfiha (Sfeeha) Folhada, a circular puff pastry crust filled with your choice of meat, ricotta, chicken, or heart of palm, was my favorite dish of the meal. I chose the traditional meat filling and was not disappointed. The meat is minced and combined with onions and spices to make for a tasty appetizer.
The Kibe (Kibbeh) Frito, was another solid dish that very much resembled the traditional Middle Eastern staple. A singular large oval-ish ball filled with spiced ground meat, the dish works well as an appetizer or as a main course, though you may want to order two pieces if ordering as a main course.
The Fatuche (Fattoush) was a nice addition to the meal, especially given that the other two items I ordered were heavier, meat dishes. A typical Lebanese salad that can be found all over the Middle Eastern region, Brasserie Victoria’s version featured mixed greens, some fresh herbs, and pita chips. While this wasn’t far from what I was expecting, it didn’t quite have the freshness and flavors of many of the fattoush I have tried and, as the most expensive dish of the meal, I didn’t think it was worth the price.
The Verdict – While I didn’t fall in love with the dining experience at Brasserie Victoria, I thought the food was good and really enjoyed learning about the restaurant’s history. At the restaurant’s price point, it is a very good value and makes for a solid lunch spot, especially if you are looking to try a different cuisine during your time in Brazil.
Brasserie Victoria
Av. Pres. Juscelino Kubitschek, 545 - Itaim Bibi, São Paulo - SP, 04543-010, Brazil